HIGH ALPES | Discover the High Valleys: Clarea, Grave, Izoard

Izoard, the Clarea,
the Grave:
small pearls preserved from the Hautes-Alpes.

This article takes you to discover the Hautes-Alpes. More specifically, three valleys in the northern part of the department: Izoard, Clarea and La Grave. Together, they form the territory known as High Valleys.

Less known than their more touristic neighbours or (too) popular places in the Alps, however, these three beautiful valleys contain Treasures. We loved to discover their confidential and wild corners, typical villages and hamlets, the sweetness of life that reigns there, the fabulous lakes of altitude, the glaciers and giant mountains that bloom with the 4,000m... And meet their inhabitants, who would never leave these pieces of paradise « for nothing in the world » Hey! Izoard, Clarea and Grave are real little pearls preserved Southern Alps. Undoubtedly, they are part of the pretty corners of France and mountains which we especially enjoyed discovering.

1. The Izoard Pass and the « Deserted bass », 2.362m.

His name resonates as a legend in the world of the Tour de France... And for cause! The Izoard Pass and its « Deserted bass » They didn't steal their fame. Every year, cyclists, bikers, motorists come in numbers to follow the path of this ribbon that snakes in the mountains. Starting first in a sublime forest, the laces (pins!) no longer end up chaining to transport us in a other world : at the turn of a corner, the dense forest is clear and leaves room for... The planet Mars? The Moon? You'll see! The road to the Izoard Pass is certainly one of the most beautiful tracks in the Alps South. Nothing better than taking the time to go through it.

2. La Vallée des Fonts de Cervières

The valley of the Fonts de Cervières is the little confidential pearl of the Izoard. When you take the small road that leads from the village of Cervières, you feel like you are entering a secret valley. After 10 minutes on a rather winding and narrow route, the panorama opens: the only small road sneaks in the middle of the flowery pastures. Around, the forest then the peaks at more than 3,000m above sea level close the horizon. The small chalets grouped in hamlets are the final touch of this deeply soothing and... Pittoresque Hey! In this little little valley, little to do... If it is to enjoy the present moment, the nature, and to chew in a piece of cheese (is produced here) ♥) not thinking about anything else!

3. Hiking of the Tour du Lac des Cordes.

This trekking that is carried out by loop on the day is ideal to discover the Izoard valley. Well marked trail, stream, waterfall, magnificent larch forest, alpine pastures, panoramic ridges and of course... Lake! In addition to having as a starting point (and arrival) the beautiful valley of the Fonts and the friendly refuge of the same name (the beer at the end of the route is very appreciated), this itinerary is the perfect opportunity to discover a whole mosaic of beautiful landscapes of the Alps. It was with Jean-Maxime, a mountain guide, that we had discovered. We're talking about this experience down here.

A detailed topo of this walk was prepared Here.

4. Lake Orceyrette

Here's another little pearl of Izoard. A blue pearl itself, and what a blue! Lake Orceyrette is one of those places that look like a postcard decor. We discovered it by electric ATV accompanied by Greg: the lake can join by car, but access it by bike (and without too much effort!) by the track that runs the forest is an experience that you are recommended. In the open air, we enjoy even better the beautiful nature around us! Lake Orceyrette is nestled in the middle of the Ayes Wood Reserve. Classified Natura 2000, this beautiful forest of larchs and pines is one of the highest in France: it peaks at 2000m altitude. Up there, some trees reached the age of 600! One of the must-sees of Izoard.

♥ LOCAL PRODUCTORS: tastings, local products and great encounters in Izoard, Hautes Vallées.

• The Farm of Lasseron To Cervières. « For centuries, mountain people from all over the world have been taking their animals to the pastures of altitude in summer. In Europe, those who stay there are today very rare... But in the peaceful valley of the Fonts, at the borders of Queyras and Italy, an irreducible family still spends the beautiful season at the foot of the Chalps... ». It's the story of the Brunet family and their farm in Lasseron. When we met Myrtille, one of the three girls, he was asked how many generations his family had been practising this profession. His answer? « Since Always Hey! ». Here, breeding and cheese production is a passion. Their days are rhythmic by goats and cows as well as by the seasons. Although rest periods are rare, « for nothing in the world » Myrtille would leave her 16 cows and her little corner of paradise in the Fonts de Cervières. The memory of his meeting near his chalet in Les Chalps has a special place in our memory. It has the flavor of delicious cheeses tasted in the midst of flowery alpine pastures, rocked by friendly and simple discussions, surrounded by mountains... Without lying, the cheeses from the farm in Lasseron are a wonder. And when you see how animals are raised, it's double happiness! We can only warmly recommend you go meet the Brunet family.

♥ ACCOMMODATION AND RESTAURANT: typical address and nice refuge in Izoard, Southern Alps.

• The Refuge Napoleon, Izoard Pass, 2.290m.
  How can I talk about Izoard without talking about him? We loved staying at the Napoleon refuge, a real good address on this Route des Grandes Alpes. First, its location – a few pins from the top of the Izoard Pass – is magnificent. Below, the road flows into the heart of a peaceful and lush larch forest, these conifers that are the pride of the Alps. It's almost like a tale! A little higher, the lunar landscapes of the Desert Casse and an incredible panorama of the peaks at more than 3,000m await visitors. But the Napoleon refuge is mostly the smiles and the good mood of Marie and Corentin, site guards for four years. Beloved, full of spirit and especially in love with this high mountain environment, they have made this place a temple of good living and pleasure of simple things! The rooms with mountain décor are comfortable, warm and tastefully decorated. Home-made dishes are generous and comforting. Finally, their dessert buffet – homemade cakes and pies – is legendary. Many even come from far away to taste the famous lemon pie! In winter, the refuge is joined by cross-country skiing or snowshoeing and the kilometers of descent can be made... In luge, under the moonlight!

♥ GUIDES AND ACCOMPANIERS: filling up experiences in the Izoard alongside true mountain ambassadors.

• AzimutIn Cervières: « Ride today, work tomorrow » Hey! It is the creation of this super small business in Cervières that offers all-inclusive adventure stays, mountain accompaniments and bike and ski rental. Their specialty is mountain biking, mountaineering, hiking, freeride skiing. It was with them (Greg) that we went to discover Lake Orceyrette by electric mountain bike. The team is young, dynamic and super friendly. We recommend them if you want to have fun adventures in the mountains.
• Office Mountain Visa TrekkingTo Briançon: Hiking, Canyoning, Mountain biking, Snowshoeing... The team offers a beautiful range of mountain activities in Briançon and Serre-Chevalier in the Hautes Alpes. The guides and guides (we had done the Tour du Lac des Cordes accompanied by Jean-Maxime) are real ambassadors passionate about this natural environment. This was our first accompanied walk and we loved it: the understanding was good immediately, the friendly and enriching exit (thanks to him the hike took on another dimension, we learned so much about everything around us!). Committed and sensitive to developing sustainable tourism, they are also recommended to you.

1. The Refuge du Chardonnet: day hike or overnight experience at the refuge, 2.227m above sea level.

When we talked about a postcard refuge, we thought very strongly of this beautiful refuge typical of the Alps made wood browns larch. Step to discover more widely the mountain or end in itself, it is you who decides: the refuge of the Chardonnet, true good address of the Clarea, is perfect for both! The little walk that leads there is very beautiful (we made a Article the surroundings of the refuge, the natural habitat of marmots and ibex. The cuisine here is homemade, organic, local and, whether it's lunch or evening, is delicious! Finally, Nico, the guardian, breathes energy and good waves of the mountain. Imagine: he set foot in the Chardonnet shelter 23 years ago... Today he has 43, and he is Still not gone Hey! To discover this place, we understand why. Of course, the Chardonnet shelter is also a great place for enjoy a beautiful evening and night in the mountains and may be the departure of other hikes.

2. The Fontcouverte waterfall

If you go around to discover the Chardonnet refuge, don't miss the little walk to discover this beautiful waterfall. From the car park in Fontcouverte, 30 minutes will be enough to go back, but allow a little more time for enjoy along the trail and on site. The small ribbon of land that sneaks into the greenery is often in the shade of the forest and is very pleasant. Flat, it runs along the beautiful river of the Clarea : the universe is quite enchanting and the desire to land on the edge of the clear water is strong! Upon arrival, we discover the impressive waterfall, not so high but wide and powerful (we had discovered it in June, the flow can be different according to the seasons)! It's a discovery that we enjoyed very much and we recommend.

3. Via corda de l'Aiguille Rouge, 2,545m.

One word: wow Hey! This via corda is perfect for filling up sensations while rubbing at one of the emblematic peaks of the Clarea: the Red Needle, at 2,545m altitude. At the top, the award: a 360° panorama of Nevache and the Italian mountains. Although it represents a certain challenge – especially for those who are not familiar with the climax tie – we do not regret the day dedicated to this challenge above Nevache. From the beginning to the end, i.e. from the departure of our guest rooms at 8am, until the 16h beer shared with Alain (our guide), we have loved the experience Hey! A via corda is a cross between via ferrata and mountaineering. It is a route equipped with metal steps and pins, but not wired. We are progressing in harmony with each other by ensuring with carabiners. Alain was a great guide who managed to put us in trust throughout the adventure! This via corda with it is a great opportunity to discover this mineral world (sometimes red, hence the name of this summit!) of high mountain, playing field of the chamois.

4. The transhumance festival in Nevache.

It takes place every year around mid-June: this party where conviviality is a must-see if you wish to take part in one of the oldest traditions of these mountains Hey! The transhumance is the time of year when the herds climbed to the pastures to enjoy the good grass of altitude. In Nevache, since 1927, it is a major event since the commune, the owner of the pastures, saw thousands of animals passing through the alleys: imagine, they flooded from Provence to come and spend their summer days here! As this event also marks the beginning of the beautiful season, this mountain tradition is always associated with on a holiday. Every year, a joyful meeting is organized in Nevache to celebrate it: artisanal market, music, dances, exhibition space that revives the history of transhumances, drink, traditional meals... And then, at the beginning of the afternoon, accompany the shepherds and their herds to the pastures!

♥ LOCAL PRODUCERS: tastings, local products and great encounters in Nevache, in the valley of the Claree.

• The Plampinet goatmeat Nevache. « Happiness does not buy but cheese, yes. It's almost the same! » Welcome to the temple of goat cheese... Manon Temple! Native to Nevache, when this young animal osteopath learned that Plampinet's goat shop was looking for a new owner, she jumped on the occasion. Since then, in these buildings built at the foot of the mountains in 1983 and becoming a small institution in the Clarea valley, Manon has put a heart to look after his 45 goats. We had the opportunity to discuss with her during our visit to the goat shop. It was a real pleasure to meet this young breeder and producer who gives so much Love to his goats that of passion making cheeses. Manon is the breeder who gives a name to all her goats and continues to care for the oldest, even if they no longer produce milk: « I love them, and they make me good ». We want all producers to be like her! You will understand, we can only recommend that you take a gourmet break at this goat shop.

Plampinet goat farm is located on the Nevache road, a few kilometers before the village. Farm sale of farm goat cheese. From fresh to refined and specialties: tomme, cabriollette, cabrior and blue. Open year round, every day in summer (10-20h) and 6 days/7 the rest of the year (10:30-18h – closed on Wednesday). More info just Here.

♥ ACCOMMODATIONS AND RESTAURANTS: typical addresses, charming guest rooms and very good tables in Nevache, Clarea Valley.

• LHostel du Clot Nevache. The Auberge du Clot is a bit the end of the end of the small road that crosses the village (and ends on the way, then squarely in the grass, elsewhere). For a minute, we doubted we could find a hostel there and yet... The beautiful wooden chalet is there. In reality, we are a few minutes from the centre of the village, but we feel like we are here apart with only the nature that surrounds us. In this peaceful environment, the large elegant chalet Gives only one desire: quickly go snuggle inside! Wanted not to pass, on the contrary, when you discover its pretty rooms. But to be honest, when you think about the Inn of the Slot... We also think a lot about its restaurant Hey! We would teleport ourselves well again to our evening table, with the homemade soup that smokes and the succession of dishes of the terroir, all cooked with a lot of greed and finesse. And dessert... No, we're not telling you anything. That's the chief's surprise.
• The Joy of Living Nevache. We could write an article just about this place. The Joy of Living is, since 1973, the warm guest house of Claire and Isabelle. Here, the mountain style comes with warmth, modernity and elegance. In the living room, the crept fireplace and soft armchairs only require that we come to the bathroom, one of the 1000 books of the library in hand. Upstairs we find spacious rooms and one large spa, all made of wood. Located at the foot of the mountains, the 20-hectare estate also has a farm where ponies and lamas are killed, as well as a certified organic farm. In line with Claire and Laëtitia's values, energy is eco-produced on site! Finally, the cuisine, concocted by Claire, is a part of the mountain products, fresh and natural (it's not uncommon for the menu to be drawn up according to what they picked the day before, for sure, this melt in the morillae will remain engraved in our memories ♥). Claire also has a crazy talent to prepare vegetarian dishes as varied and gourmet as the rest of her kitchen and this is rather rare! Well, we're gonna stop there (even if we'd like to talk to you about our cool discussions with Isabelle -real Bible!- on this. « most beautiful valley in the world » What is Nevacha!).

♥ GUIDES AND ACCOMPANIERS: filling up experiences in the Claree Valley with real mountain ambassadors.

Alain Tallaron : « You see it when you talk to a mountain man, you see that they live the mountain in a deep way, that they have it in them: you see it in their eyes ». These are his words and yet they describe him so well to him: Alain is one of our most beautiful encounters in the Hautes-Alpes. Well known in the Clarea Valley, this mountain guide has many years of experience. Botanical hiking (he loves and has a lot of knowledge), but also hiking, snowshoeing, electric mountain biking, climbing, via corda... In addition to being a force of nature, he is an extremely caring person who has drawn from these years of mountain practice a rare simplicity and wisdom... Our via corda with him (you know) and our exchanges are really good memories.

Contact: 06 08 30 69 09.

Antoine Allier: It was with Antoine that we discovered the refuge of the Chardonnet and the beautiful waterfall of Fontcouverte. We enjoyed the two days spent with this medium mountain coach. In fact, it's pretty simple, when you walk around the Alps by his side: you feel like you're at home! Coming here from a very small age, he fell in love with this environment and the Nevache valley. He lives there today with his wife and two daughters. In addition to learning a lot about the natural environments that we've travelled together, we've enjoyed discovering the way we see and live the mountain: humble, respectful, passionate, true and simple. Just like him!

Contact: 06 07 65 98 14.

1. Le jardin du Lautaret, 2.100m.

Bienvenue dans ce petit paradis botanique niché en pleine montagne, sur les hauteurs du col du Lautaret. De part sa situation géographique et ses spécificités géologiques, le Jardin du Lautaret est souvent introduit comme un des plus beaux jardins botaniques d’altitude d’Europe. Et pour cause : avec plus de 2.000 espèces provenant de 60 massifs alpins différents (des Andes en passant par l’Afrique, jusqu’à la Sibérie !), ce jardin est une véritable invitation à un tour du monde végétal. Il est facile d’y passer des heures. Surtout si on se laisse le temps de profiter des différents espaces qui invitent à la détente, tantôt à l’ombre de la végétation dense, tantôt au bord du plan d’eau. Le tout face à un cadre exceptionnel : le grand pic de la Meije et ses glaciers. Le Jardin du Lautaret est un lieu de visite (d’explorations !) mais aussi de recherches : il abrite une station du CNRS, le Centre National de Recherches Scientifiques. Depuis plus de 100 ans, les scientifiques & étudiants du monde entier viennent étudier la biologie des plantes alpines ainsi que les effets des changements climatiques. On a adoré la visite guidée (comprise dans le billet d’entrée) qui nous fait faire un vrai tour d’horizon des montagnes (et des enjeux…) du monde. Ca fait du bien, de s’arrêter dans ce genre d’endroit et d’oublier nos petite préoccupations pour s’ouvrir à la beauté et à la fragilité de ce qui nous entoure.

Ouverture : du premier week-end de juin au premier week-end de septembre, tous les jours de 10h à 18h. Tarif : 7€ (+18ans), gratuit pour les moins de 12ans. Visites guidées quotidiennes comprises dans le ticket d’entrée de Juin à Août à 10h30, 14h30 et 16h. Plus d’infos et tarifs juste Here.

2. Le plateau d’Emparis

Ce plateau d’altitude est un des plus beaux endroits des Alpes du sud. Classé Natura 2000, ce plateau abrite plusieurs lacs qui forment un incroyable balcon avec vue sur des géants de glace : les glaciers de la Meije et son Grand Pic à 3.973m d’altitude. On a consacré un article à la randonnée de 15kms qui parcoure en boucle les beaux lac Lérié, lac Noir et le plateau d’Emparis. Avec un bivouac à la clé, c’était une de nos plus belles expériences dans les Hautes Alpes.

Tu peux consulter l’article sur la randonnée du plateau d’Emparis et des lac Lérié et lac Noir juste Here.

3. Le téléphérique de la Grave

Il est l’heure de réveiller ton âme d’alpiniste ! Avec ses 1750m d’ascension en 30mn, le trajet du téléphérique de la Grave est à lui seul une aventure et une invitation à la contemplation… D’un other world. Bien assis dans la cabine, on peut observer la multitude de paysage qu’offrir la vallée de la Grave : des denses forêts aux glaciers millénaires. La gare de Peyrou d’Amont, gare intermédiaire située à 2400m, propose des expériences contemplatives pour admirer et comprendre l’environnement qui t’entoure. Balades possibles depuis la gare. Le télésiège te téléporte ensuite à 3.200m d’altitude : c’est la gare du col des Ruillans, l’arrivée du téléphérique. Tu te retrouves alors aux portes de l’un des derniers grands glaciers alpins : celui de la Girose, bien connu des skieurs, alpinistes et… sculpteurs (pour comprendre, rdv au point suivant). Là-haut, le face-à-face avec les glaciers est prenant, contrairement au panorama… Imprenable sur la vallée de La Grave. Nous n’avons pas eu assez beau pour le faire lors de notre visite, mais des balades glaciaires accompagnées ou des initiations alpinisme sont possibles. Se renseigner auprès du bureau des guides de La Grave. Le restaurant La Cabine 3.200 propose également là-haut de bons plats généreux dans une ambiance chalet de haute… Très haute montagne.

Plus d’infos sur le téléphérique La Grave-La Meije et tarifs juste Here.

4. La grotte de glace du glacier de la Girose.

Cette grotte et les sculptures qu’elle comprend ont été entièrement façonnées par la main de l’homme, à la pioche puis, plus finement, par les sculpteurs afin de donner vie aux créatures de la montagne. Située à 5min de marche de l’arrivée du téléphérique de La Grave, elle est immergée sous la glace à une profondeur de plus de 30 m. Cet antre glacé se visite grâce à de longs couloir éclairés de petites lumières colorées. Un univers fascinant qui fait découvrir les entrailles des glaciers qui nous entourent.

Plus d’infos sur la grotte de glace juste Here.

5. Rencontre avec un garde du parc National

A quelques pas du col du Lautaret se trouve le Parc National des Écrins, zone montagneuse hautement protégée afin de préserver sa riche biodiversité. Avec ses 91 800 hectares, 150 sommets à plus de 3.000m et 740kms de sentiers balisés, ce Parc est un immense havre pour la faune et la flore, ainsi que leurs invités : les amoureux de la montagne. Chamois, bouquetins, rapaces, marmottes et espèces de l’époque glacière telles que les lagopèdes alpins ou campagnols des neiges peuplent cet endroit. Pour en apprendre plus sur ce lieu, ceux qui le peuplent et ceux qui le protègent, n’hésite pas à visiter la Maison du Parc National au col du Lautaret. Nous avions eu l’occasion d’y rencontrer Cyril, garde du Parc, et avons beaucoup apprécié découvrir son métier. Tu y trouveras également tout un tas d’informations, un espace vente et un espace projection.

♥ PRODUCTEURS LOCAUX : dégustations, produits du terroir et chouettes rencontres dans la Grave.

• LAtelier du Lautaret au col du Lautaret. Bienvenue au pays des mille & une douceurs… Au miel ! Véronique et Jérôme ont installé leur délicieuse boutique sur les hauteurs du col du Lautaret où, après plus de 15ans dans l’apiculture, ils se consacrent désormais à la transformation du précieux nectar. Miel des Alpes, pain d’épices, nougat, confiture, pâte à tartiner, bonbons, biscuits… Ici le bon miel artisanal se décline sous toutes ses formes, pour le plus grand plaisir des gourmands mais pas que. Sensibles aux bienfaits sur la santé de la propolis (mélange de cire, de salive et de résines prélevées sur les conifère), Véronique & Jérôme proposent également une gamme de produit 100% naturels allant de la crème au savon. On a adoré faire la rencontre de Jérôme, montagnard de caractère avec ce petit côté aussi doux que les gourmandises qu’il fabrique.

♥ HÉBERGEMENTS : bonnes adresses où dormir dans la Grave

• Hôtel le Faranchin à Villar-D’Arène. Construit en 1976 au coeur du village de Villar-D’Arène, cet hôtel a d’abord été tenu par Nicole & André avant d’être repris par ceux dont on a fait la recontre : David (leur fils) et Sabrina. Au fil de toutes ces années, cet établissement est devenu une adresse bien connue dans la Vallée de La Grave. Le Faranchin propose 35 chambres récemment rénovées à l’ambiance montagnarde, la plupart avec balcon et vue sur une partie de la Meije. On a beaucoup aimé la jeune équipe dynamique et la gentillesse de David et Sabrina. Situé entre le col du Lautaret et le village de la Grave, c’était aussi un parfait camp de base pour rayonner dans la vallée. Autre point qu’on a aimé : le restaurant de l’hôtel propose tous les jeudis un menu du jour végétarien (mais même les autres jours, ils nous ont toujours proposé des alternatives adaptées à nos demandes !). Le chef n’est autre que David lui-même. Animé par son métier, il met du cœur à satisfaire ses invités en proposant un menu varié, une cuisine généreuse et des produits locaux de saison.

♥ RESTAURANTS : les bonnes tables autour desquelles se rassasier / rassembler dans la vallée de La Grave.

• La Cabine de 3.200, en haut du téléphérique de la Grave : Avalanche de saveurs en prévision ! Si tu nous as suivis jusque là tu dois deviner pourquoi on a tant aimé cette adresse… Comment ne pas tomber sous le charme de ce restaurant en bois niché au pied du glacier de la Girose, entouré de ses hauts sommets ? Que ce soit après la visite de la grotte de glace ou une initiation d’alpinisme, on te recommande de prendre une place en terrasse ou de pousser sa porte d’entrée pour profiter d’un panorama incroyable autour d’un plat généreux. Les pizzas maison sont testées et approuvées.

• Brasserie des Glaciers au col du Lautaret : Situé en haut du col du Lautaret (oui, encore lui), la Brasserie des Glaciers se situe en bas de l’hôtel Lautaret Logde & Spa. Avec sa salle conviviale toute en bois sombre et ses petites touches de lumières ça et là, on est de suite plongés dans une ambiance entre pub et chalet d’altitude. La Brasserie des Glaciers propose une belle cuisine de brasserie et des burgers incontournables. A l’image de la région, les assiettes sont (très) généreuses et l’ambiance chaleureuse, idéal pour faire le plein d’énergie avec en plus de bonnes bières locales !

• Restaurant le Faranchin à Villar-D’Arène : Nous avons déjà cité ce restaurant un peu plus haut lorsque nous te parlions de l’hôtel le Faranchin. « Le Faranchin » et sa terrasse sont ouverts à tous et pas seulement aux clients de l’hôtel. C’est une chouette adresse pour manger de bons plats préparés par David selon les règles d’or : produits locaux et de saison.

Fin de la découverte de ces 3 jolies vallées des Hautes-Alpes.

Tu as aimé cet article ? On espère qu’il t’a donné full of great ideas pour pouvoir vivre ta propre escapade dans les Hautes Vallées, au nord du département des Hautes-Alpes. Si tu as des questions, remarques, ou que tu as juste apprécié cet article, n’hésite pas à nous en faire part en laissant un commentaire. Nous serons heureux de te lire et Let's always answer.

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