ROADTRIP FRANCE | 7 days of adventure among the most beautiful villages perched in Occitanie.

WHAT YOU FIND IN THIS ARTICLE
→ A little recap of this roadtrip in pictorial maps.
→ The story of adventure over the days.
→ Useful links throughout the story that will give you all the practical information for you too to build your adventure.

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Day 1 | First stage of the roadtrip, Cordes-sur-Ciel

On the way to the sleeping dragon.

It's a Monday, we're late in the morning. Under a big sun, it's a little hour since we're doing our first kilometers in the Tarn. That's stupid, We've always lived three hours from here and yet today we discover this corner of France... As if it were a new world. We have reached the south of the department and, open windows, music in the background, tea thermos on our knees, we sneak among the small roads (those that I prefer). The asphalt ribbons follow the curves of the hillsides and soon we find ourselves growing among the vines flooded with sun.

Our road reaches the peak line spotted a few days earlier and recorded on our map, we turn left on a small secondary road and the expected vision occurs: it is there, in the middle of the hills, floating in a green setting like a mirage, sweet sleeping dragon: Cordes-sur-Ciel, the first stage of our roadtrip.

Legend says Cordes-sur-Ciel was built on a sleeping dragon. To understand why at a glance, you just have to go and observe the silhouette of the village from the point of view said « Sarmazes » Then you will see its enclosure, its houses and its alleys running along the ridges of the hill where they were built 800 years ago. It will be enough for you to guess the contours of the great sleeping dragon.

11:00. Arrival in Cordes-sur-Ciel

We follow the last country roads and then the fine stone alleys that climb: we arrived in this village decidedly as amazing from far as close. The place where we place our bag for two nights is like the city we are about to discover: full of mysteries, history, sweetness and charm! The owners of the place are Alain & Marie 7 years ago, they completely changed their lives to realize their dream: living in a perched village. Originally from the Paris region, one day they discovered Cordes-sur-Ciel... And fell in love with it. Since then, they have given life to this place: The Secret of the Cat.

The meeting of Alain and Marie marks the starting point of our adventure here in Cordes-Sur-Ciel. Throughout our explorations, they were our dose of benevolence, smiles, nice discussions… HumanActually. You will see it, it will not be the only ones: we loved to discover Cordes-Sur-Ciel, but we especially loved to discover those who make it « soul » : its inhabitants, artists, artisans. In the meantime, this is our first immersion in these alleys. As we leave Alain & Marie's house, I already hear the « Wow! » Maxime as he discovers the first pedestrian rear streets. We're offering you a little photo travel :

⊛ The right idea: the guided tour.
Since we have two days to discover the city we have – for once – chosen for this first day to discover it through a guided tour : The Tourist Office organises it every day in summer at 11am or 5pm, the visit costs only 4€ per adult and lasts only a short hour (more info Here). It was the perfect opportunity not only to discover but also understand and its history. In addition, it allowed us to meet Valentine : we loved spending this time with her, exchanging and listening to her stories... Which we leave you surprised.
Our visit through the Tourist Office also allowed us to meet Veronica : she gave us a lot of indications to sneak on the paths looking for views. We kept his precious piece of paper to serve the next day and... You'll see what it's been like.

6:00. And in the countryside, works that make sense: Didier's meeting.

After wandering in the middle of the alleys (although you can turn and go back, you always discover unexplored passages) you get away from the frenzy surrounding the countryside: you go to meet Didier and the place he managed to build, year after year. About ten minutes' drive and we discover the place: far from the lively streets of Cordes-Sur-Ciel, there reigns a surprising calm here. We're in the middle of nature, near the sunflower fields. Didier turned this old farmhouse into a gîte and guest rooms and offers a restaurant to the kitchen that looks great on local produce – the chef is none other than his son – But beyond this resounding ensemble, it's his universe that we wanted to talk about here: we enjoyed discovering the sensitivity of this man whose convictions speak to us through... of its works of art committed.

Didier's contemporary works embellish the garden of the estate: that evening, he took the time (we thank him) to walk with us among them and to us them comment. In his way, through them, he denounces the consumer society, Man in the nature, sixth continent (in the northeastern Pacific, plastic waste forms a sixth continent of 3.5 million kilometres in size)... And a whole bunch of other subjects for which he has the merit of wanting Raising consciousness. He has also produced a small guide to interpret the whole so that this form of art is accessible to both adults and children. In addition to being a refreshing place, this is a visit (gourmet, if you also taste at the restaurant) useful and pleasant that leads to reflection.

DAY 2 | Last day in Cordes-Sur-Ciel

5:30. raised in the aurora

This morning, we got up early to go observe one of the things that do the beauty and peculiarity of Cordes-sur-Ciel. After a little walk to reach the heights, still in the darkness, one sat wisely among the vegetation, until the first rays of the sun launched the Show : under the morning red light, perched on this ridge, the sun rose in silence on more than 800 years of history... And it was a vision that deserved this morning awakening.

Back to the place left early this morning. We find Alain&Marie for breakfast: we are happy about our morning, it is beautiful, everything is delicious and their good mood is contagious! An hour later, at the random of our discussions, Alain decided to embark with him for a unusual visit of this village he loves so much: that morning, we visited a medieval village aboard his... tuk-tuk Hey! It's her favorite locomotion way to get around here. After more than a year in Asia, it's worth saying that this getaway has reminded us of a lot of memories...!

2:00 p.m. This afternoon looks like... Paradise.

The morning ran quickly and in the afternoon as well. After walking in the alleys spotted yesterday we discovered a new facet of the city that we can only advise you: the Garden of Paradise. We went to discover it out of curiosity and from the first steps we loved the place: it's a True « other world » in the heart of the city. We spent a lot more time than we expected... And almost getting late for something we'd regret missing. Tonight, someone's waiting for us. Here are a few photos, but we'll leave you surprised to discover his different « worlds » By yourself:

6:00. In the artisan's workshop.

His name is Aurelia. For 20 years, she's been practicing here.* a special activity : 5h, end of day at 8pm... Aurelia dared to embark on the activity that fascinated her since she was little: leather work. The texture, the smell, the material: since she had fallen small on this artisan working, everything attracted. And like « in life, you have to know how to listen to what you love »... It's the job she does today!

We had a great time with her and we loved to discover her story: from Lille, Aurelia discovered Cordes-sur-Ciel by chance a long time ago, while she accompanied friends. By wandering around the streets alone as they go shopping, she falls on this house, a sign « For rent » Hanging on the door. The feeling is immediate: It's here ! She makes a call and changes her life: She officially became a tenant of this beautiful historic building in which she felt that she needed to live. Today, by renting this place to the Society of Friends of Old CordsAurelia participates in the continuation of this association ' s vocation: preserve the heritage and continue to make the history of Cordes-Sur-Ciel shine.

* Here, it's her Shop, it's also her Workshop, it's also home... This is the leather workshop Kontrevent, that you can find nearby of the door of Rous Cordes-sur-Ciel.

We spent a long time with this Lille girl who fell in love a long time ago from this place. That night, she was kind enough to invite us up to her house: for the first time, We climbed up And it was a bit of a magic moment: that of the end of a busy day, when it was through the window... The rays of the sun invite in his living room. We're backstage with Cordes-Sur-Ciel... From the point of view of the inhabitants and not the visitors. She says she was bewitched by this place, we understand why.

8:00. The end of the day takes place on new heights and music.

We climbed on one of the hills around Cordes-Sur-Ciel for a special occasion: the Bold-R festival. This open air festival offers a sublime view of the city which simmers under the last rays. The one behind this is « Pierrot » : several summer nights, he puts his piece of paradise called here « The Crown » available to local artists. The goal? Encourage local artists and boost the culture that is growing in its territory. We had a great time there!

Pierrot is also a member of the Society of Friends of Old Cords and also works at the Charles Portal Museum – the history museum of the city of Cordes, an association museum run by volunteers. Throughout our meetings, we could not help but notice this attachment and passion that people here have for this place.

DAY 3 | to the adventure between2vignes

9:00. It's time to leave Cordes-Sur-Ciel.

It's also time to leave Alain & Marie. Only two days that we had met, yet it's already a little hard to say goodbye! The doors close, the engine restarts, we leave the stone alleys and move away... For a whole different set.

Today we are going to meet Laure. In her own way, she proudly applied herself to make one of the things that made her land singular: she took over with her husband the family wine sector and devote all his time to it... Seven years! His will? To revive a 500-year-old wine tradition through organic farming and biodynamics. From the vine to the cellar (where the vignification takes place, where the grape juice turns into wine) passing through the tasting stage, we spent the morning (and even early afternoon...) in the company of Laure, discovering his estate, his history... And flavours of its terroir. Furthermore, we were alien to the principle of biodynamics, and learning with a person as passionate and inspiring as Laure was a pure pleasure.

The Biodynamics is a method of cultivation that does not use any synthetic product: it can be said that it is a much larger form than organic farming. It integrates the impact of lunar cycles for example (the moon has effects on our body, why wouldn't it have on plants, or even animals, the vine?) or the application of natural preparations. Biodynamics considers all elements (soil, fauna, microfauna, cultivated or wild plants, trees, men... are interdependent.

⊛ The good idea: The Vigneron Pass.
If you want to have a similar experience and meet those who continue this century-old tradition, the Winemaker's Pass is the right option. You can book the discovery of the domain of your choice in a few clicks and you have a good overview of the different vineyards offering the experience!

1:30 p.m. En route to the hut in the vineyards.

We drive back to the little special place where we will sleep tonight, we look forward to finding out. On the road, we pick up a picnic basket at home. Coast to Coast in the small village of Cahuzac-sur-Vère. Why say that here?... This picnic was the most Gargantuesque Our life! You'll find « Butcher » If you're looking for their name on the Internet, but the reality goes beyond that: what lies behind this little red front on the road is a real ode to the gastronomy, good food and good products Hey! As the happy team proudly says: « Here we love the good things and we're generous on the quantities! ». The message is received and the following photos will confirm these lines.

We go back from there wondering how we're going to eat all this, the road towards the point recorded on our map further away from any village and then becomes a path we follow through the vineyards... It is hot, the sun is bright, the wind runs through the open windows of the car and, at the turn of the nice rows of vines, we see: one area and a little further, apart, a cabin (or rather a pretty little cottageat this stage) which overlooks the hills. That's where we'll sleep tonight!

2:30 p.m. Departure for adventure.

Last cheese chop above the vines, a short nap to try to escape the outdoor heat and team for a new adventure / meeting We're on our way, looking for Dominique's domain. It's a quarter an hour from here. At the end of a large white alley, one discovers a beautiful and large stone building with flowered walls. The children play outside, the horses watch us park under the trees, the dogs welcome us... We are in the middle of the countryside and the setting is idyllic. We let ourselves be amazed by this place, eyes wide open. Animals, nature, silence... Everything calls for calm. Dominique is coming to meet us. She has a big smile. As soon as we see, his features tell us something...

And we weren't mistaken! We chat with this energetic and caring woman with pleasure, and over the course of the exchanges we learn that Dominique is of Vietnamese origin His mother comes there. If we meet her it's because of the activity that she is doing and that you will soon discover, but we spent a long time with her to enjoy this happy chance, to discuss this country in which we lived three months... Not long ago. And in which we have so many memories. Dominique's story echoes the remarkable strength of these women in Vietnam. Since she touched us, you too are invited to take the time to find out:

Guided by his passion for horses, over the years, this place has become the center A pony a story. We thought the name couldn't be better found! Now we're going on a walk with Emma, her daughter.

8:00. Can't not feel that excitement in the air...

After Horse riding in the vineyards (we could not hope to discover them better!), we left Emma and Dominique in their pretty center to come back and take a fresh shower in our wooden chalet. We put on a light outfit, we catch a piece of cheese that we had left at lunchtime (we still haven't managed to finish our lunch picnic basket, it's a first for Maxime) and we go back. We park our car in a field nearby. Everywhere around, vineyards, as far as you can see. We are in the middle of nowhere and yet, impossible not to feel this excitement in the air... We're about to discover what we've been described as a pure Tarna tradition:

...Aperos in the heart of vineyards! We follow the joyful line of people who immerse themselves in the rows of vines and, at the top of the hill, we discover the place: in the middle of the grapes which grow under the sun, the large tabbed, hay boots as chairs, barrels as tables, a scene of outdoor concert, small stands for drinking or eating under light garlands... And walking glasses and wine bottles on all tables!

The whole is bathed in the sunset light. The green of vines and sunflower yellow radiate. Children play in straw boots, parents and/or groups of friends, laugh and laugh around the tables, musicians settle down, the young team in the field of business... Premises, French tourists and foreign tourists are only one, and the whole is full of joy!

You guessed: We have Loved, adored, loved the atmosphere. If you go to the area, we can only advise you this experience. The right ingredients for this recipe made in Gaillac vineyards? Friends, family, good wine bottles, an outdoor concert, drinking, eating, talking, laughing, dancing, meeting... By intoxicating the sunset!* Our « aperitif » was in Five Peyresbut other areas This concept is also proposed.
*Or incredible moonrises, we let you discover it in image right after!

Of course, between two drone pilot courses, everything has to be renewed over and over again. Thank you, Charles! For the winemaker behind this « apeyro » And so is the Domaine des Cinq Peyres!

DAY 4 | Awakening in the vineyards > CASTELNAU-DE-MONTMIRAL > Puycelsi

This is the third stage of this roadtrip:

We wake up gently and pull the curtains to discover the sunny hillsides. On the terrace, we discover the breakfast cage that Myriam left for us, full of good things: fresh juice, strawberries, piettes, artisan yogurts, cheeses from here, peaches... Breakfast will be as rich as the picnic the day before! It's only 8:30 a.m. but, when we get up early, we finish emptying our wine glasses with their orange juice and we put our bags back in the car: the place we'll be spending the next night is not very far away, but we're going to go through the little roads to make a detour and want to enjoy the day.

...The poetry of the streets of Castelnau-de-Montmirail.

This is the stage we planned to take before going to Puycelsi, and we are not disappointed with the detour. Parked at the foot of the ramparts, we like what we discover from the first steps. It's still early, the alleys are quiet and the morning fresh air finished to perfect the sweetness that you feel to walk here. We find that every alley is like a movie set. The fronts of the houses are all beautifully flowered, one imagines mysteries and a lot of stories behind each wooden door (each is unique!), we meet the inhabitants who descend from the central square beret on the head and newspaper in hand... And before we join her, we get lost voluntarily in the alleys and passages.

As in Cordes-sur-Ciel, street names often refer to crafts and craft activities of the medieval period. We've got a little bit of a feeling again. go back in time. We enjoy capturing this atmosphere. Everything is immersed in a gentle silence. It's as if life here has been flowing so quietly for centuries, away from the rest of the world...

We discover the medieval square, pretty village center. Some traders and artisans have opened their shops, the parasols are unfolded on the terrace of the café, the small Tourist Office perfectly inserts under the wooden cutlery, at the disposition of those who would like to discover the place. It is also in this place that we make the meeting of Jerome And it's again a pleasure to chat with someone from here! A few moments spent with him and we feel what has become necessary since the beginning of this journey: the joy, generosity, benevolence and passion for this territory Hey! Jerome has a good way to carry high the pride of his « country » through creations Made in southwest that he offers in his shop called... BouduWith a lot of poetry!

12:30. About twenty minutes' drive and we discover Puycelsi, a new perched village.

It dominates its islet of nature and has no less charm than Catelnau-de-Montmirail, which has just left: Puycelsi. At that time we still didn't know how much we were going to love. Again, those who live there are not for nothing.

During the lunch break, we meet with Tiam Tam : he is a waiter at Jardins des Lys and from the first exchanges, the current passes! Unbelievable but true, he too is Vietnamese And while the Occitane beer is on our table, that the good Tarn products are on our plates (from the balcony terrace on the valley, Tiam shows us the producer at whom the restaurant supplies ice cream), hearing this language again is an amazing happiness! We're leaving after a good time here, her coordinates scratched in the near, and a promise to return to that country.

2:00 p.m. Meeting of Christophe and Jean-Christophe.

We reserve the discovery of the village for the evening, when it will make softer. This afternoon we leave to escape the overwhelming heat... Christophe and Jean-Christophe. They live a short walk from here in a corner of nature. When one arrives at home, one is again seized by the study the place. Gorki, their dog, is a love and welcomes us with at least as much kindness as they do. Both of them have embarked on an adventure we want to talk about:

At 45, Christophe and Jean-Christophe made the choice of changing their lives:
They left the Paris area and came to settle here. Guided by their convictions, they have become independent producers and creators in a particular field. Indices : it is entirely natural And it's got to be meaning on the Plan ecological. Their primary motivation? Reconnecting with simple things and nature:

« I was a sales manager for 25 years... And Jean-Christophe was a professor of the history of law. What we love is to travel on horseback: we made France, Tunisia, North Africa... In Paris, this notion of nature began to really miss us so we started looking for a place that could bring together all that we loved: a place that would allow us to ride on horseback, go hiking... etc! We searched our house with IGN cards! Then we came across this place, and it was the charm of this place that brought us to the life that we are leading today.

We wanted a more local activity and that this place is not just a place of residence. So we renewed ourselves, we started from scratch and we transformed the old adjoining barn... In soap factory! It was the fact that we made our soaps for our personal use that inspired us. We spent 4 years creating, formulating, building a constellation of know-how, working with other local artisans... We liked it a lot! In 2017, our business was created: Oppidum. We work at the maximum in local, with the least possible packaging, even our labels / packaging are printed here in the Tarn! And so long as to do, we wanted to go to the end: all our products are 100% organic and natural, even the perfumes are homemade by Jean-Christophe! Our production remains small and everything happens here, at home, in our hands. Now we offer some cosmetic products and we can export to 15 countries around the world! »

16:30. Back in the streets of Puycelsi.

We'll be out in an hour and discover this place but before: We take refuge at home. Delphine. We knock at the door and she comes to open us... On a whole other world. Or rather another time. Guided by his gentle and applied explanations, Delphine makes us discover the remarkable house she lives and where we will have the chance to spend the night: we follow her in this 400-year-old place. Guided by his comments, we climb the impressive staircase and... Time goes back: when this place was the old gendarmerie of the village horse brigade, and four families (and their horses!) lived here. We climb the floors and finally, discover for the first time the village at the windows of this place is a good surprise Everything is even more magical.

6:00. The end of the day is as sweet as our host.

You can be carried by the alleys and then by the sunset from the ramparts overlooking the cliffs, at 360 meters above sea level. Later tonight, Frédéric, the boss of the Roc Café (the oldest bistro in the village!) « chant the terroir » on our plates and will confirm what everyone has been telling us for 4 days of roadtrip: We're good here, in this little corner of France out of sight. We are even proud to live there and make it discover! If you read this article Frédéric, thank you again for this great moment, our discussions, your passion and your generosity. That night, the day will end as it began: wine glass, to observe the spectacle of the sun a piece of cheese in hand. Tomorrow, however, it will begin very, very early and will not be so quiet.

DAY 5 | Puycelsi > Bruniquel

5:30. « At the tomb, take the smallest of the three trails« .

The alarm rings and stings. But this is not the first time of the week, and we know it's for the right cause. We dress in silence, catch the aircraft, go down the big stairs into the darkness. We slip the hiking shoes and gently close the antique door from Delphine. It's still dark in the alleys of the village, we join the car and leave. A few minutes on a small road in a forest and you stop at the hollow of a bend: from there one of the many hiking trails that span the cornerAnd that's what Delphine told us. Yesterday, she drew us valuable indications to gain access to her preferred point of view. We hold the piece of paper like a treasure card. In the night, in the light of the front lamps, we sink into the woods in search of the next step: « at the tomb, take the smallest of the three paths ».

6:30. We arrive before the first lights and we have time to settle in this large clearing. In the distance the silhouette of Puycelsi is emerging. In that night, the light points glaze the village still asleep. Maybe 20 minutes of waiting... Slowly, the atmosphere warms up, the sun makes its appearance, and we think this morning show was worth getting up in the aurora, walking in the night... And get caught by a boar! There are moments out of time, this morning was part of it. After watching the village wake up, we stayed on these paths for a long time enjoy nature and the first lights.

Back in Puycelsi, we thank Delphine for her great advice walk and honors her breakfast that she strives to make 100% local (all those we met we put the same point of honour to make us discover the flavors of here!). We still take a bit of the room to empty the memory cards of our devices and sort out our images, then it's time to say no goodbye but... See you soon. to these people and this place that we enjoyed discovering. The next step? It is 13km away and has no less charm than the previous one. Right before, we went to lose (really getting lost) on the rolling roads of the oak forests to find a well-known place in the region... Farm-restaurant (inn too) Oaks.

The good idea is to get in good conditions to eat at the Oak Farm.
To Oak, as Serge says, the home fact is obvious and the « eating well » and conviviality are among the slogans! Here, everything comes from the farm or other producers around and everything is homemade, following grandmother's recipes. Not without being a real farm away from everything, you really eat between oaks and... It's a treat.But pay attention to the small appetites! Our advice: go there one night of winter or autumn and just before, make it our home when we know that we will eat the first raclette of the season: skip lunch!

2:30 p.m. Discover the Le Pic cheese factory.

Was it a good idea, right after that, to go meet Julien ? We'll let you judge. In our defense, he was on our way and... We challenge you not to enjoy, even in the middle of the afternoon, his goat cheeses (ok, except for those who, like Maxime, cannot eat this cheese)!

Previously, Julien was in the humanitarian and then he took over this place: the Pic cheese, the family business, with his brother. At the furthest, the milk he collects is 40km away, the goats are raised in the open air, without GMOs, and now the family company employs... 25 people! Goat cheese from s « exports » its expertise in other countries, to continue to combine this passion with humanitarian missions: « I did the Cabécou... In Nepal! Not far from Kathmandu. I taught locals to refine cheese in Kosovo, just after the war ».

6:00. End of day.

Just a few minutes' drive from Julien's cheese factory to the stage of the day* : Bruniquel. When at the turn of a bend one sees this bastide above its cliff, one cannot help saying: These perched villages are definitely all more beautiful than each other Hey! As we go through this roadtrip, they never cease from us. surprise.

* This is one of the things we enjoyed in this roadtrip: not having to go too far every day.

The village of Bruniquel is very small. Losing yourself in the steep alleys and under its doors – Middle, Newfoundland, Rocas -, passing through the square of the Horloge which counts its two restaurants, going up, descending the stone roads, passing at the foot of its castles and its old houses to corbellation and half-timbering, perhaps one hour enough to visit the whole village. However, as we discover it, Something here lasts... It is this feeling that we have had everywhere else, an unreal suspicion, this feeling of being in A kind of garden of Eden that would live as isolated from a world... a little too rough compared to the life between these walls.

This feeling, Cathy and Philippe both manage The Tavern of Time we confirm it (we advise you to go enjoy this place one night after your visit, and we don't say that because they have a lot of good beers: we loved it there eat, take time, and getting to know each other of the two owl people who make this place live):

DAY 6 | Brunique > Penne

6:00. Adventure starts early and again with hiking shoes

It's all « problem » to have good weather conditions and beautiful places to explore: one does not resist the temptation to go watch the sunrises... And we don't sleep much! From the bridge at the bottom of the village, you walk into the dark woods for little by little to reach the heights that light up. And who says height Says...

Wouldn't it look like we were in a film, or cartoon ? That morning, we continued a good hour on this end of the GR46 that connects – among other things – Bruniquel to Penne, which is our next (and last) destination for this roadtrip.

Enjoying morning lights on this trail has been a real treat, in turn among the bushes on the heights of limestone cliffs or in the confidentiality and freshness of forests, passing through the fields bathed in gold Or... The undergrowth straight out of a fantastic tale Hey! This walk on one end of the GR46 between Bruniquel and Penne is one of our favourites of the roadtrip (you will find the route on GoogleMaps by clicking on the link we put here : of GR46).

10:00. Back in Bruniquel, we continued to be captivated...

But this time by anything other than the nature surrounding the village : it happens here (photo below)down the village, in that barn that for 20 years is driven by a very special activity… Yoann and his father, Fernando, make it a rare profession for 4 generations : they are glass blowers ! This workshop has come to life here in Bruniquel since 1987. Since then, glass never stopped being shaped there. Yoann has practiced this art since he was 20, thus continuing what his great grandfather had begun so many years ago in Portugal... We spent an hour, maybe two, with Yoann and his father, being hypnotized by this. amazing know-how and listen to their story. Not without being more talented, they are two simple men passionate about their profession.

Their workshop is located below the village and the entrance is free: just push the big wooden door Overcame by a window, and you will be able to observe Yoann and Fernando not doing demonstrations, but actually work: they run a shop in the centre of the village but it is also in this workshop that they carry out orders placed from all over France, and sometimes even beyond borders.

2:00 p.m. How about we get lost in the campaign?

This is the last afternoon we spend in Bruniquel. Some last explorations in this city where we end up feeling at home, a tour of the two castles to take up height and more soak with History of the place, one last passage to the shop of Yoann to say goodbye (the historic building that holds it as a shop is worth a look!), right opposite, a last beer at Philippe and Cathy's... Then we get back on the road to go 20kms away, more deeply in nature... Right here: to Vaour, at Nathalie. We'll spend the end of the day exploring the countryside in the sunset, getting to know her and just taking the time... To enjoy the simple things that surround us. The time we spent there was a bubble of quiet away from everything.

We spent the last night of this trip here, by the water, in the background of cricket singing, looking at the sky. As it was a night for shooting stars and the sky was quite clear, we even tried to immortalize the stars: accustomed to the mountains, we had no idea that we would immortalize such a moment. – such a sky – here, in the countryside of this small corner of France.

DAY 7 | Penne > Back home

7:00. Mystical sunrise in Penne.

Nathalie's house is only a quarter hour away from Penne, the last village on our map, and we will not play a word game with the name of this village. For this last morning, we go back and forth to do a walk before breakfast. Like (yet?) any place, there is a particular atmosphere in these morning hours1 calm for discovery1 ambiance as reward to those who get up early.

We are not disappointed with what we discover thanks to this getaway: dominating the village, the fortress as hanging on its cliff gives a mystical look to the walk. C’est sûrement le chateau le plus étonnant – atypique – qu’on ait pu voir. La vision qu’il offre d’abord depuis les ruelles du villages, puis lorsque grâce aux sentiers on prend de la hauteur, est saisissante.

On est tentés de partir à la découverte des ruelles mais nos estomacs nous rappellent que le petit-déjeuner nous attend chez Nathalie. On y reviendra quelques heures plus tard, lorsque la population vaquera à ses occupations quotidiennes, que les petits cafés et restaurants auront ouvert, que les visiteurs auront fait leur apparitions dans les ruelles. Penne nous semble encore plus petit que Bruniquel, mais une fois encore, qu’est-ce qu’y déambuler est agréable. Plus on prend de petites rues, plus elles sont belles. Le charme que peuvent avoir ces villages ne cesse de nous surprendre, et au bout d’une semaine à les découvrir, on comprend pourquoi ils figurent parmi les plus beaux de France.

La bonne idée : demander à ceux qui connaissent mieux que personne, tu y as pensé ?
C’est bête, mais quand on organise un voyage – ici un roadtrip – on a le réflexe de passer des heures sur Internet (voir les réseaux sociaux) à chercher les infos, les bonnes adresses, sans penser… Aux Offices de Tourisme (enfin c’est le cas pour nous en tout cas, peut-être pas pour toi). Pourtant, tout-au-long de cette aventure, c’est en allant parler avec les gens (ceux et celles qui travaillent dans les Offices de Tourisme, nos hôtes, les artisans, les restaurateurs, ou simplement les habitants) qu’on a eu les meilleurs surprises / bonnes adresses / conseils. On s’est rendus compte que c’est un principe qu’on appliquait naturellement à l’étranger, mais pas forcément en France : aller vers les gens. Si on te parle de ça, c’est parce qu’ici, à Penne, nous avons fait la rencontre de Régine. Elle connait son territoire par cœur, elle l’adore, et quand elle ne travaille pas à son Office de Tourisme, c’est à sa famille et à ses amis qu’elle le fait découvrir. On voulait juste lui dire merci, car elle a apporté de la fraîcheur et de l’humain à notre passage ici. Alors – si au hasard de tes lectures tu tombes sur ces lignes – merci pour ton entrain, ton temps, ta passion, ta bonne humeur : te rencontrer et passer un peu de temps avec toi a été au moins aussi agréable que de découvrir cet endroit !

La fin de ce roadtrip, c’est sur l’eau puis en hauteur qu’on la passera : on est partis prendre une bonne dose de nature en kayak découvrir le Tarn et ce village… Sous un autre angle, au rythme du fleuve.

On a terminé la journée en grimpant dans l’enceinte du chateau pour découvrir les gens qui y font revivre l’histoire : sans mentir, on n’est pas vraiment « visite de chateau » en temps normal, mais ces visites scénarisées sont une vraie, vraie bonne idée. Les guides-conférenciers sont aussi comédiens et, vêtus comme autrefois, ils plongent les visiteurs dans l’ambiance d’autrefois (c’est bluffant, on se croirait dans un film). Même les tailleurs de pierre qui restaurent le chateau semble sortis d’une autre époque, et la bonne humeur générale de tous ces chevaliers, troubadours, seigneurs et seigneuresses, inquisiteurs… Est contagieuse ! Pendant un temps, on est vraiment revenus en l’an 1242. On a ri, on a appris, on a observé… Comme des enfants. On s’est fait prendre au jeu, littéralement !

Ces visites guidées théatralisées sont réalisées par des guides conférenciers tous les dimanches d’été. Le chateau peut aussi se visiter à son rythme, librement. Plus d’infos par Here.

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