BIG CHINA MURAL | Trek vertiginous & night on a formidable section

WHAT YOU FIND IN THIS ARTICLE
→ The story of our two-day trek in autonomy on one of the most dangerous wild sections of the Great Wall of China: its difficulties, its stunning landscapes and our night on one of the watch towers.
→ A link to our practical article « Tips & best practices for exploring wild sections » which aims to help prepare your own adventure while raising awareness of the preservation of this building of exceptional universal value.

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Climbing, dizzying slopes, stairs that defy gravity... and stones that go out into dust.

After a thrilling experience the day before we had discovered for the first time the wild sections of the Great Wall of China, we continue exploring this legendary building but this time-so on a new part. On the agenda of the next two days: the conquest of a section recognized as one of the most dangerous of the whole building. This portion starts from a remote valley and runs on about 20 kms and eventually join a tourist section. Climbing, dizzying slopes, stairways that defy gravity, stones that leave in dust... On this section, the Great Wall of China narrates the peaks just like those who try to challenge it: a raw, wild beauty... and fearful. We have planned two days of trek to go through it which induces a night of bivouac on the ramparts.

Did you know that?
Not having really proved its worth after the wars, the Great Wall of China was left to abandon by the very country that gave birth to it. Nature was allowed to take hold of it and its stones were even thrown out to serve other buildings. It was only when the country understood the tourist attraction that it could generate that it decided to save some parts of it: today it is these beautiful restored sections that attract thousands of visitors every year and it is now forbidden to remove stones, even if in small villages some inhabitants continue to do so for their personal use.

Day 1. The Great Wall of China, or the giant fighter's journey.

8:30 - Late not on the plate.

We finish our last material checks from the hostel in which we found refuge the day before (arrived at the end of the day and caught in a storm, we decided to push our bivouac back on the wall). We swallow one last banana, check the water reserves and take a look through the window: in the distance stands the impetuous silhouette of the one we will have to face, ribbon of stone as laid on the ridges of the mountain. From here, we can guess the guet towers sprinkled on the tops.

2kms separate us from the entrance to the section. The trek begins in the quiet streets of the small village in which we slept and then we go into a forest with autumnal colours. Late not on the plate. The leaves cover the path that climbs hard in the mountain and we already see red ribbons with golden inscriptions: They indicate the way to the wall.

If you undertake to make a trek on the Great Wall of China, these ribbons will be your guides throughout the day!

9 a.m. - A first major challenge.

We have been walking for 30 minutes in the forest when we reach the walls of the watch tower which marks the beginning of this wild section. Here we see our first objective at the top of the mountain: it is called the « Node », because there are three sections of the building. And that's when our excitement mixes with fears.

In front of our eyes stands a terrifying portion where the stairs have disappeared to leave room for a pile of unstable stones. Here the wall did not resist the work of time and seems to have been absorbed by the mountain. While the dizzying slope of the last two climbs makes us cold in the back, we understand why the name of this part had awakened so much terror in the eyes of a Chinese passerby. From now on we know the first challenge we will have to face: climbing with our backpack several tens of meters of a wall that threatens to collapse.

The Node will not be easily conquered. We face the first difficulty: a completely collapsed portion where before a staircase was held. This portion has collapsed recently. We meet a resident who climbed there for a few photos that warns us to be very careful and reminds us of the dark story that cost the life of a young woman two days ago. The hike did not even begin that we hesitate to stop.

We start thinking we're well equipped. (which proved not to be entirely true) and carefully prepared this expedition. Carefully, we decide to move forward and to Stroll the slope at... 70 degrees. This may not be very visible in the photo, but on our right the mountain falls to peak for several kilometers.

We progress in the shadow of the mountain, gently, ensuring with every hand, every foot we lay. Each stone can be a trap and ascension requires 100% of our attention. We don't talk during the first half hour of this trek: just from time to time, looking back or forward to ensure our mutual progress.

Prisoners of the wall, one can only see the landscape through carved openings. We continue long minutes in silence in this dark, century-old corridor when the first rays tickle the top of our bags. Then we think we have arrived but once « Top »... We find a last climb.

Better not be dizzy...

In this last climb the serpent of stone freed from gravity to continue the crazy vertical race imposed on him by this summit. We're not. We keep as much as possible glued to the wall because our bags loaded enough because of the bivouac pull us towards the vacuum. Unable to take a shot, we only exit the camera on the brief slope breaks.

It is to wonder how these men who, centuries ago, kept the ramparts or waged wars there. At that time, we cannot even imagine the conditions of those who could build this building, mad imperial ambition.

9.45 a.m. - We've reached the top!

After the ascent that almost drove us back, we savor our first panorama with a well deserved peanut break but without too long a time: the road is still full of obstacles. Tonight, before the bivouac, we must have passed the main difficulty of the day which is located 10kms away.

We continue our road and discover that a small part of the Wall has just been restored, over a hundred meters.

If you go here, you'll find these small portions of the land that the government has recently rebuilt. The goal? Ending the many accidents by making certain points more easily accessible, because here the Wall is too dangerous to travel in its entirety. Thus, the ground and the ramparts have been redone and shortcuts have been moved into the forest in order to allow those who would like to observe it to reach it in more or less 1h30 walking by the trails, and avoiding all difficulties (a good alternative if you want to tread a few meters from this section without putting yourself in danger).

But who says part more easily accessible says...

This is disgusting, but unfortunately not surprising given the behaviour that can be observed in some countries where ecological awareness is less developed or, more generally, tourist places. It is important to remember: if you are considering going to the Great Wall of China (or whatever trek you are planning), Getting a little bag to take your garbage with you is always a good idea.

Hurry, We move forward to find the unreconstructed part. From now on the program is: stairs, stairs, solid stairs, stairs and even... « climbers ». Some descend so steeply that we do not distinguish between steps, as if they led directly to a vacuum or plunged into the vastness of the landscape. Each climb or descent becomes a small victory.

30 minutes later – The invention of the word « climbers » Never been so justified.

In front of us, a new difficulty: a wall about 50 meters high with a slope at 80° where the steps of Dantan seem to be gone... dust. You find yourself facing a new dilemma: take a path around the mountain but lengthen the route, or climb this part and enjoy a unique view (and challenge) on the wall. To be honest, we hesitate for long minutes because the part is very technical and requires a real escalation: If the ascent may not be impossible in normal times, the weight of the bags makes it very dangerous.

We choose to climb, and the wall needs our attention again.

The ascent is dizzying again, even more than the wall we had to face at the very beginning of this day. It takes us about 20 minutes. Maybe more, maybe less. When the concentration is extreme, the time becomes hard to estimate.

Almost arrived, we take our breath back in a small hollow of stone where we can sit. We know that we have succeeded, there will no longer be any difficulty in reaching the summit. We find this one after a few minutes of break to take our breath... Before we get it cut again when we see the beauty of the landscape that unfolds before us.

12.30 - A short rest.

Several hundred meters stand the impressive « Sky Stairs« literally « on heavenly stairs« . Inclined at 80°, they are known to be among the steepest stairs in the world, so narrow and steep that they descend only from back, hands hanging on both sides of the wall and feet unable to tread the steps... on the tip.

Here we go. And finally the stairs don't come down, they fall : their inclination is such that when one overlooks them one sees only the vacuum. Fine and scary at once. But we are happy to take on a new challenge.

Unlike other difficult portions the stones shaping these stairs are in better condition and relatively well sealed between them. However, the inclination of the slope is likely to cause some problems for people who are prone to vertigo: the whole descent is done from back to back by groping in the vacuum to find the steps at the tip of the foot.

Once down there, we can't help but scrutinize this remarkable and dreadful construction and think that these stairs bear their name very well. Seen from here, they seem to go up to heaven.

We continue our journey to « point of non-return« . To be well documented, we know that from now on we have two choices:

• Leave the section by going down a path that reaches a village.
• Continue. Knowing that the coming kilometers are considered the most difficult to cross and that none other « emergency exit » will be possible.

Driven by our desire to achieve this portion in its entirety without bypassing a single obstacle, our legs engage us on these new kilometers. Having planned food for two days reassures us, Because we know that no matter what obstacles we face, we can take the time to overcome them.

5 p.m. - Between fatigue & fascination.

Kilometers shrunk. For the moment the difficulty is not greater than what we have been through and if fatigue begins to be felt, it is however quickly forgotten thanks to the paintings we have before us. As we continue to gain altitude, we enjoy a spectacle out of time: the landscapes are gilded with the first light of the day and while walking, we think that the wall has this fascinating ability to alternate chaos and harmony... Sometimes even offer both at a time.

But he's getting sick.d. And with the sun falling the atmosphere changes.

The sun goes down but we have not taken advantage of it: we must concentrate. We arrive at the point where the wall goes down in the shadows and then finds the highest point of our journey, a watchtower known for its exceptional panorama.

The next 60 minutes will be in the shadow of the wall and will be trying. The descent is slow because we have to find the way to bypass portions where the wall sometimes falls to peak for several meters and here no path is built but... The rise is worse. It's been a few kilometres since we had this ultimate obstacle in sight without being able to distinguish where the wall was flowing through the rock of the mountains. The reason is very simple and we discover it at that time: there is no more wall, it stops literally at the foot of a rock wall.

This is what we call the « natural ramparts » which are counted as part of the Great Wall of China. During construction, Chinese people voluntarily used these cliffs for parts of the building, saying that it would be all the more difficult to cross. They weren't really wrong..

For the blow it is unexpected, we had found little precise information about this portion. We are at the foot of the wall in every sense of the word: forced to find a way to climb this wall because going back is no longer possible. Photographing is impossible and often the 1m65 (not to be mentioned) is not enough to achieve the correct shots. At the foot of the wall, a thin tree trunk is pressed on the rock: this will be our first catch. At the end of the day, our bag imposes more weight on our shoulders and our legs are heavy every mile travelled, This is the most difficult and dangerous part que nous ayons eue à franchir.

18H30 – Récompense après une journée à avoir pris plaisir à pousser nos limites physiques et mentales.

On aime le challenge sportif. On se souvient de cette sensation euphorique après les suées (chaudes et froides) dues à ce dernier obstacle. La pente est toujours raide mais on aperçoit enfin notre tour de guet, on prend plaisir à titiller une dernière fois nos limites physiques dans cette dernière ligne droite. Au bout, la porte de la plus haute tour : refuge pour la nuit et récompense d’une journée intense où nous avons pris plaisir à pousser nos limites physiques et mentales. Une dernière petite escalade de pierres entreposées, puis nous atteignons notre objectif. Bonheur, et soulagement de se retrouver là alors qu’il fait quasiment nuit !

Le bivouac s’installe, on pose la tente à même la roche en prenant soin de la bloquer au sol avec des pierres démises que nous trouvons sur la tour. Nous ne tardons pas à nous emmitoufler dans nos duvets : ce soir, c’est gros cocktail de bienvenue avec peanuts et coca à volonté, ainsi que gros remémorage d’une sensationelle journée. Les cacahuètes n’ont jamais été aussi bonnes, notre tente aussi confortable et nos duvets aussi douillets. A ce moment là on s’endort épuisés, mais plus heureux que jamais. Chaque difficulté surmontée a rendu l’expérience un peu plus belle. Bref : nous n’avons jamais été aussi heureux d’être fatigués.

JOUR 2 – Réveil au sommet et retour à la réalité

5h30 – Des frissons au réveil.

La nuit à été venteuse mais pas froide, merci aux duvets 0° degrés ! Nous nous réveillons pour un petit déjeuner avant le lever de soleil. Le plan ? Partir aux aurores juste après que les rayons aient embrasé la muraille. En atteignant ce point la veille, nous avons laissé derrière nous les principales difficultés de ce trek : aujourd’hui il nous reste 8kms avant de rejoindre la section touristique. Là-bas, nous pourrons attraper un bus pour Pékin (demain, nous partons pour le Népal) mais avant…

Lever de soleil sur la muraille : après quelques minutes d’attente, en silence, la boule de feu émerge lentement derrière les sommets aiguisés tandis que le léger voile de brume appose de jolis tons pastels à l’horizon. Lorsqu’on se tourne de l’autre côté, la muraille se réveille et on s’aperçoit du chemin parcouru la veille.

C’est grandiose. Tout simplement. Et ça valait la peine de toutes les difficultés passées ! Se réveiller sur cet ouvrage millénaire à l’origine de tant de légendes sera un de nos plus beaux souvenirs de voyage, surtout lorsque nous avons la sensation de l’avoir mérité.

Il est dur de partir mais nous sommes quand même excités à l’idée de reprendre l’aventure. À 8h00 nous nous dirigeons vers ce qui sera la majeure difficulté de la journée : la Corne de bœuf. On l’appelle ainsi à cause de la forme qu’elle dessine sur la montagne : une grande ascension qui rejoint le sommet pour ensuite prendre un virage à 180° et… redescendre à pic. Autrement dit : à cet endroit la muraille fait un détour de presque 1km et plus de 100m de dénivelé, alors qu’elle aurait pu couper tout droit… Mais c’est le jeu, la Grande Muraille de Chine aime narguer les sommets et ceux qui tente de l’escalader.

La montée est raide et rude, mais la descente n’est pas plus facile. Elle est même pire : les larges pierres sont désespérément lisses et il faut s’accrocher aux remparts pour ne pas glisser et dévaler la pente malgré nos chaussures de randonnée qui jusque là ne nous avait jamais laissées tombés ! Le poids de nos sac n’arrange rien encore une fois, mais après quelques glissades et des nouveaux marches pieds dignes d’un jeu de tour infernale, on arrive en bas.

La muraille c’est ça : un jeu d’obstacle géant, un joli parcours du combattant.

Désormais on avance beaucoup plus facilement. Peu à peu nous passons des sols de poussière à la pierre. La végétation qui s’emparait des murs s’efface pour laisser place à des remparts de plus en en plus esthétiques, d’un beige éclatant. Au fil des kilomètres, la muraille se déroule et évolue, c’est alors… comme si on remontait le temps.

12h – Nous voilà arrivés en 2018.

L’évolution est brutale et nous ne savons plus si après la jungle nous sommes de retour à la civilisation… ou si c’est la jungle que nous découvrons. Nous avons rejoint une section touristique. La séparation entre les deux parties est matérialisée par une arche de pierre qu’on a comblée il y a longtemps : il suffit de se glisser sur le côté du mur et de l’enjamber, des marche-pieds ont même été sculptés.

Ici la muraille grouille de monde. Alors que nous venons de passer 2 jours de solitude, nous faisons la queue pour descendre les escaliers ou traverser les tours et partout des vendeurs ambulants proposent à boire, à manger, des ombrelles… Pour la plupart, les filles sont en jupe et les hommes en chemise. On peut accéder à des bars et à certains endroits leur musique est poussée à fond. Des luges sur rails ont même été aménagées pour descendre la Muraille… Avec nos gros sacs sur le dos complétés par la tenue de rando que nous portons depuis 2 jours, les gens nous regardent bizarrement sans comprendre pourquoi un tel équipement. On se sent… Comme des aliens, téléportés soudainement sur une autre planète.

Il faut quand même le dire : bien que très touristique, cette partie offre de très jolis tableaux. D’une belle couleur ivoire, la muraille resplendit au milieu des paysages automnaux. Un cliché de nous deux pour immortaliser notre arrivée à la portion nouvelle, puis nous comblons péniblement les deux derniers kilomètres au milieu de la foule : après un total de 4h de marche (14h depuis le début), nous nous extirpons des murs afin de profiter d’un dernier temps de pause… et de retrouver Pékin.

La « Muraille originelle »… sur une section touristique ?

Nous avons croisé là-bas une famille qui nous avait demandé si c’était « encore loin ». Sans trop comprendre leur question on avait répondu que cela dépendait d’où ils voulaient aller… La réponse leur paraissait évidente : « Et bien, jusqu’à la partie originelle ! ».
→ Nous avons été surpris d’apprendre que lorsqu’on montait depuis ce côté touristique, il était dit qu’on pouvait atteindre la « Muraille originelle » à l’extrémité ouest de la section. Nous avons réalisé qu’il s’agissait de l’endroit par lequel nous étions passés quelques minutes plus tôt : là où une dame âgée tenait un stand d’eau, devant un grand arbre où les visiteurs suspendent des rubans rouges, à côté d’une plaque mentionnant la date de construction. Même si cet endroit est moins flambant neuf que le reste de la section, il reste en réalité le mieux entretenu de tous ceux que nous avons traversés. Néanmoins, on ne peut lui enlever qu’il est l’endroit le plus proche (géographiquement parlant) des parties non-rénovées et il est parfait pour ceux qui veulent s’en rapprocher ainsi que bénéficier d’un joli point de vue sans s’engager dans une telle aventure.

Pour te donner une petite idée du contraste que nous avons vécu, voici notre porte d’entrée (0€), comparée à celle de notre porte de sortie (6€ + 10€ de téléphérique selon le point d’accès).

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