BIG CHINA MURAL | Trek vertiginous & night on a formidable section

WHAT YOU FIND IN THIS ARTICLE
→ The story of our two-day trek in autonomy on one of the most dangerous wild sections of the Great Wall of China: its difficulties, its stunning landscapes and our night on one of the watch towers.
→ A link to our practical article « Tips & best practices for exploring wild sections » which aims to help prepare your own adventure while raising awareness of the preservation of this building of exceptional universal value.

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Climbing, dizzying slopes, stairs that defy gravity... and stones that go out into dust.

After a thrilling experience the day before we had discovered for the first time the wild sections of the Great Wall of China, we continue exploring this legendary building but this time-so on a new part. On the agenda of the next two days: the conquest of a section recognized as one of the most dangerous of the whole building. This portion starts from a remote valley and runs on about 20 kms and eventually join a tourist section. Climbing, dizzying slopes, stairways that defy gravity, stones that leave in dust... On this section, the Great Wall of China narrates the peaks just like those who try to challenge it: a raw, wild beauty... and fearful. We have planned two days of trek to go through it which induces a night of bivouac on the ramparts.

Did you know that?
Not having really proved its worth after the wars, the Great Wall of China was left to abandon by the very country that gave birth to it. Nature was allowed to take hold of it and its stones were even thrown out to serve other buildings. It was only when the country understood the tourist attraction that it could generate that it decided to save some parts of it: today it is these beautiful restored sections that attract thousands of visitors every year and it is now forbidden to remove stones, even if in small villages some inhabitants continue to do so for their personal use.

Day 1. The Great Wall of China, or the giant fighter's journey.

8:30 - Late not on the plate.

We finish our last material checks from the hostel in which we found refuge the day before (arrived at the end of the day and caught in a storm, we decided to push our bivouac back on the wall). We swallow one last banana, check the water reserves and take a look through the window: in the distance stands the impetuous silhouette of the one we will have to face, ribbon of stone as laid on the ridges of the mountain. From here, we can guess the guet towers sprinkled on the tops.

2kms separate us from the entrance to the section. The trek begins in the quiet streets of the small village in which we slept and then we go into a forest with autumnal colours. Late not on the plate. The leaves cover the path that climbs hard in the mountain and we already see red ribbons with golden inscriptions: They indicate the way to the wall.

If you undertake to make a trek on the Great Wall of China, these ribbons will be your guides throughout the day!

9 a.m. - A first major challenge.

We have been walking for 30 minutes in the forest when we reach the walls of the watch tower which marks the beginning of this wild section. Here we see our first objective at the top of the mountain: it is called the « Node », because there are three sections of the building. And that's when our excitement mixes with fears.

In front of our eyes stands a terrifying portion where the stairs have disappeared to leave room for a pile of unstable stones. Here the wall did not resist the work of time and seems to have been absorbed by the mountain. While the dizzying slope of the last two climbs makes us cold in the back, we understand why the name of this part had awakened so much terror in the eyes of a Chinese passerby. From now on we know the first challenge we will have to face: climbing with our backpack several tens of meters of a wall that threatens to collapse.

The Node will not be easily conquered. We face the first difficulty: a completely collapsed portion where before a staircase was held. This portion has collapsed recently. We meet a resident who climbed there for a few photos that warns us to be very careful and reminds us of the dark story that cost the life of a young woman two days ago. The hike did not even begin that we hesitate to stop.

We start thinking we're well equipped. (which proved not to be entirely true) and carefully prepared this expedition. Carefully, we decide to move forward and to Stroll the slope at... 70 degrees. This may not be very visible in the photo, but on our right the mountain falls to peak for several kilometers.

We progress in the shadow of the mountain, gently, ensuring with every hand, every foot we lay. Each stone can be a trap and ascension requires 100% of our attention. We don't talk during the first half hour of this trek: just from time to time, looking back or forward to ensure our mutual progress.

Prisoners of the wall, one can only see the landscape through carved openings. We continue long minutes in silence in this dark, century-old corridor when the first rays tickle the top of our bags. Then we think we have arrived but once « Top »... We find a last climb.

Better not be dizzy...

In this last climb the serpent of stone freed from gravity to continue the crazy vertical race imposed on him by this summit. We're not. We keep as much as possible glued to the wall because our bags loaded enough because of the bivouac pull us towards the vacuum. Unable to take a shot, we only exit the camera on the brief slope breaks.

It is to wonder how these men who, centuries ago, kept the ramparts or waged wars there. At that time, we cannot even imagine the conditions of those who could build this building, mad imperial ambition.

9.45 a.m. - We've reached the top!

After the ascent that almost drove us back, we savor our first panorama with a well deserved peanut break but without too long a time: the road is still full of obstacles. Tonight, before the bivouac, we must have passed the main difficulty of the day which is located 10kms away.

We continue our road and discover that a small part of the Wall has just been restored, over a hundred meters.

If you go here, you'll find these small portions of the land that the government has recently rebuilt. The goal? Ending the many accidents by making certain points more easily accessible, because here the Wall is too dangerous to travel in its entirety. Thus, the ground and the ramparts have been redone and shortcuts have been moved into the forest in order to allow those who would like to observe it to reach it in more or less 1h30 walking by the trails, and avoiding all difficulties (a good alternative if you want to tread a few meters from this section without putting yourself in danger).

But who says part more easily accessible says...

This is disgusting, but unfortunately not surprising given the behaviour that can be observed in some countries where ecological awareness is less developed or, more generally, tourist places. It is important to remember: if you are considering going to the Great Wall of China (or whatever trek you are planning), Getting a little bag to take your garbage with you is always a good idea.

Hurry, We move forward to find the unreconstructed part. From now on the program is: stairs, stairs, solid stairs, stairs and even... « climbers ». Some descend so steeply that we do not distinguish between steps, as if they led directly to a vacuum or plunged into the vastness of the landscape. Each climb or descent becomes a small victory.

30 minutes later – The invention of the word « climbers » Never been so justified.

In front of us, a new difficulty: a wall about 50 meters high with a slope at 80° where the steps of Dantan seem to be gone... dust. You find yourself facing a new dilemma: take a path around the mountain but lengthen the route, or climb this part and enjoy a unique view (and challenge) on the wall. To be honest, we hesitate for long minutes because the part is very technical and requires a real escalation: If the ascent may not be impossible in normal times, the weight of the bags makes it very dangerous.

We choose to climb, and the wall needs our attention again.

The ascent is dizzying again, even more than the wall we had to face at the very beginning of this day. It takes us about 20 minutes. Maybe more, maybe less. When the concentration is extreme, the time becomes hard to estimate.

Almost arrived, we take our breath back in a small hollow of stone where we can sit. We know that we have succeeded, there will no longer be any difficulty in reaching the summit. We find this one after a few minutes of break to take our breath... Before we get it cut again when we see the beauty of the landscape that unfolds before us.

12.30 - A short rest.

Several hundred meters stand the impressive « Sky Stairs« literally « on heavenly stairs« . Inclined at 80°, they are known to be among the steepest stairs in the world, so narrow and steep that they descend only from back, hands hanging on both sides of the wall and feet unable to tread the steps... on the tip.

Here we go. And finally the stairs don't come down, they fall : their inclination is such that when one overlooks them one sees only the vacuum. Fine and scary at once. But we are happy to take on a new challenge.

Unlike other difficult portions the stones shaping these stairs are in better condition and relatively well sealed between them. However, the inclination of the slope is likely to cause some problems for people who are prone to vertigo: the whole descent is done from back to back by groping in the vacuum to find the steps at the tip of the foot.

Once down there, we can't help but scrutinize this remarkable and dreadful construction and think that these stairs bear their name very well. Seen from here, they seem to go up to heaven.

We continue our journey to « point of non-return« . To be well documented, we know that from now on we have two choices:

• Leave the section by going down a path that reaches a village.
• Continue. Knowing that the coming kilometers are considered the most difficult to cross and that none other « emergency exit » will be possible.

Driven by our desire to achieve this portion in its entirety without bypassing a single obstacle, our legs engage us on these new kilometers. Having planned food for two days reassures us, Because we know that no matter what obstacles we face, we can take the time to overcome them.

5 p.m. - Between fatigue & fascination.

Kilometers shrunk. For the moment the difficulty is not greater than what we have been through and if fatigue begins to be felt, it is however quickly forgotten thanks to the paintings we have before us. As we continue to gain altitude, we enjoy a spectacle out of time: the landscapes are gilded with the first light of the day and while walking, we think that the wall has this fascinating ability to alternate chaos and harmony... Sometimes even offer both at a time.

But he's getting sick.d. And with the sun falling the atmosphere changes.

The sun goes down but we have not taken advantage of it: we must concentrate. We arrive at the point where the wall goes down in the shadows and then finds the highest point of our journey, a watchtower known for its exceptional panorama.

The next 60 minutes will be in the shadow of the wall and will be trying. The descent is slow because we have to find the way to bypass portions where the wall sometimes falls to peak for several meters and here no path is built but... The rise is worse. It's been a few kilometres since we had this ultimate obstacle in sight without being able to distinguish where the wall was flowing through the rock of the mountains. The reason is very simple and we discover it at that time: there is no more wall, it stops literally at the foot of a rock wall.

This is what we call the « natural ramparts » which are counted as part of the Great Wall of China. During construction, Chinese people voluntarily used these cliffs for parts of the building, saying that it would be all the more difficult to cross. They weren't really wrong..

For the blow it is unexpected, we had found little precise information about this portion. We are at the foot of the wall in every sense of the word: forced to find a way to climb this wall because going back is no longer possible. Photographing is impossible and often the 1m65 (not to be mentioned) is not enough to achieve the correct shots. At the foot of the wall, a thin tree trunk is pressed on the rock: this will be our first catch. At the end of the day, our bag imposes more weight on our shoulders and our legs are heavy every mile travelled, This is the most difficult and dangerous part that we had to cross.

18:30 - Reward after a day of pleasure in pushing our physical and mental boundaries.

We like the sporting challenge. We remember this euphoric sensation after the sweats (hot and cold) due to this last obstacle. The slope is always steep but we finally see our watchtower, we take pleasure in titillating our physical limits one last time in this last straight line. At the end, the door of the highest tower: refuge for the night and rewards for an intense day where we enjoyed pushing our physical and mental boundaries. One last small climb of stored stones, then we reach our goal. Happiness and relief It's almost dark!

The bivouac settles down, the tent is laid from the rock, taking care to block it on the ground with the stones we find on the tower. We don't wait long to slip into our downs: tonight, it's a big welcome cocktail with peanuts and coca at will, as well as a big reminder of a sensational day. Peanuts have never been so good, our tent so comfortable and our downs so cozy. At that point we're getting tired, but happier than ever. Each difficulty overcome made the experience a little more beautiful. In short: We've never been so happy to be tired.

DAY 2 – Wake up and return to reality

5.30 a.m. - Chills when you wake up.

The night was windy but not cold, thanks to the downs 0° degrees! We wake up for breakfast before sunrise. The plan? Go to the aurora just after the rays ignited the wall. By reaching this point the day before, we left behind the main difficulties of this trek: today we have 8km left before joining the tourist section. There we can catch a bus to Beijing (Tomorrow, we leave for Nepal) But before...

Sunrise on the wall: After a few minutes of waiting, in silence, the fireball slowly emerges behind the sharp peaks while the light mist veil apposes beautiful pastel tones on the horizon. When you turn on the other side, the wall wakes up and you see the way you went the day before.

It's great. Simply. And it was worth all the trouble! Waking up on this thousand-year book at the origin of so many legends will be one of our most beautiful travel memories, especially when we feel like we've earned it.

It's hard to leave but we're still excited about the idea of resuming the adventure. At 8 a.m. we are heading towards what will be the major difficulty of the day: the Beefcorn. It is thus called because of the shape it draws on the mountain : a big climb that reaches the top and then takes a turn at 180° and... Go down to peak. In other words: at this point the wall makes a detour of almost 1km and more than 100m of elevation, while it could have cut straight... But that's the game, the Great Wall of China likes to narrate the peaks and those who try to climb it.

The climb is steep and rough, but the descent is no easier. It is even worse: the large stones are desperately smooth and you have to cling to the ramparts so as not to slip and down the slope despite our hiking shoes that until then had never let us fall! The weight of our bags doesn't fix anything again, but after a few slides and new ones steps worthy of an infernal trick gameWe're coming downstairs.

The wall is like this: a giant obstacle game, a nice course of the fighter.

Now we move much easier. Gradually we pass from dust soils to stone. The vegetation that took over the walls to give way to more and more aesthetic walls, a bright beige. Over the kilometres, the wall unfolds and evolves, so it's... Like we're going back in time.

12 noon – We arrived in 2018.

Evolution is brutal and we no longer know if after the jungle we are back to civilization... Or if it's the jungle we find out. We joined a tourist section. The separation between the two parts is materialized by a stone arch that was filled long ago: it is enough to slip on the side of the wall and to span, steps have even been carved.

This is the wall crawling with people. While we've just spent 2 days alone, we're tailing down the stairs or crossing the towers and everywhere street vendors offer drinks, food, umbrellas... Most girls are in skirts and men in shirts. Bars can be accessed, and in some places their music is pushed to the full. Tobogganing on rails has even been built to descend the Wall... With our big backpacks on our backs complemented by the dress we've been wearing for 2 days, people look at us strangely without understanding why such equipment. You feel... Like aliens, suddenly teleported to another planet.

We still have to say: although very touristic, this part offers very nice paintings. A beautiful ivory colour, the wall shines in the middle of autumnal landscapes. A cliché of us both to immortalize our arrival at the new portion, then we painfully fill the last two kilometers in the middle of the crowd: after a total of 4 hours walking (14h from the beginning), we pull out of the walls in order to enjoy a last pause... And find Beijing.

The « Original wall »... on a tourist section?

We ran into a family there who asked if it was « far away ». Without understanding their question too much, it was said that it depended on where they wanted to go... The answer seemed obvious to them: « Well, until the original part! ».
→ We have been surprised to learn that when one climbed from this tourist side, it was said that one could reach the « Original wall » at the western end of the section. We realized that this was the place where we went a few minutes earlier: where an elderly lady held a water stand, in front of a large tree where visitors hang red ribbons, next to a plaque mentioning the date of construction. Although this place is less brand new than the rest of the section, it actually remains the best maintained of all those we've been through. Nevertheless, it cannot be removed that it is the nearest place (geographically speaking) to the unrenovated parts and it is perfect for those who want to get closer to it and enjoy a nice point of view without engaging in such an adventure.

To give you a little idea of the contrast we've experienced, here's our door to you.entry (0€), compared to that of our exit 6€ + 10€ cable car depending on the access point).

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