Inescapable experiences & confidential corners for a nature stay in the Gavarnie Valleys.
The Night in refuge small children Bed & Breakfast of character, rando snowshoes at 2,000m from altitude to walk between lake and sunny ridges, we forget the good hot dishes of countries by also going to taste... To the life of shepherd The time of a morning: through this article, we propose several ideas organized in the form of a route which, through typical addresses, reveals a beautiful panel of wonders and confidential corners of the Gavarnie Valleys.
Experiences accessible to all and small budget, also possible in winter (and in Covid period!) for a nature stay, disconnection and return to essentials.
WHAT YOU FIND IN THIS ARTICLE
→ A 3-day itinerary to discover the Gavarnie Valleys where you can pick up the good ideas (personally we made this route in the winter – early March – that's why we're talking about hiking-raquettes, but it's obviously adaptable to other seasons).
→ Typical addresses and confidential places to discover.
→ Useful links to hiking and hiking.
Day 1 | Panoramic tour – picnic – hiking snowshoes and overnight in refuge to admire one of the most beautiful views of the Cirque de Gavarnie.
> 1. Panoramic tour: 30 minutes from Gavarnie, the plateau of Saugué, VIP balcony on the Cirque de Gavarnie.
Since the hike proposed for this first day requires only 3 hours of walking to reach (and sleep in!) a shelter nestled in the heart one of the most beautiful cadres in the Gavarnie Valleys, before slipping the snowshoes, so morning is free to go discover a place we love : the Saugué plateau, a beautiful natural balcony on the Cirque de Gavarnie.
The tour of the Plateau de Saugué does not present no difficulty. From the parking lot, it consists of a small loop of about 2.5km without great elevation leading gently to the bottom of the plateau, in a framework all the more bucolic, between barns and meadows. The whole does not take more than 1h / 1h30 (taking time and taking photos!). What we love when we go there is to embark the picnic and find a small grassy corner for a sweet lunch break from this balcony at 1.640m altitude, taking advantage of the view it offers on the village of Gavarnie and its beautiful Cirque which are only 30 minutes away by car.
>> See our detailed description « RANDONNEED | Nice easy ride in Gavarnie: the Plateau de Saugué » for practical information (access, starting point, duration, special precautions) as well as a short description of the walk. Attention, in the middle of winter, the small mountain road leading to the Saugué plateau is often closed for safety reasons. The traffic conditions are consulted and very regularly updated on InfoRoute65.
We like to keep it in mind:
The plateau of Saugué is a much more confidential place than the Cirque de Gavarnie, but there is still a superb and accessible place. It can therefore be very frequented according to the periods. The problem is that its configuration does not allow for the simultaneous reception of a large number of people: in times of high traffic the small parking lot is quickly full and many vehicles are parked along an already narrow road. In these moments, let us keep in mind that this place we can still enjoy is home to private properties, including barns still serving shepherds, and that it is important not to block access to it. So, like any natural place, it will not survive the continuous influx of a large number of visitors if the golden rule is not respected: not to leave traces of its passage (that means among other things not to leave rubble, but also to respect the paths already laid out to not degrade the estives).
" 2. Snowshoe hiking from Gavarnie to Espuguette refuge.
This hike from the village of Gavarnie leads to more than 2,000m of altitude in one of the most beautiful cadres in the Gavarnie Valleys. From there, stunning views of the 3.000m peaks that form the walls of Cirque and Roland's famous Brèche. The best thing is that a shelter accessible in 3 hours of walking is nestled in this fairytale picture: Espuguette refuge. If the climb is not very long, it still requires a good enough physical condition since it is to climb 650m of elevation in about 4.5km. But nothing insurmountable by taking his time! When we realized in March 2021, snowshoes were required from 1,800 / 1,900m above sea level. We had fixed them to our backpacks for the start of the walk that takes place in the forest, then pavements at the plateau half way.
>> See our detailed description « RANDONNEED | The Espuguettes refuge from Gavarnie in winter + night at the refuge » for practical information (access, starting point, duration, special precautions...) + description of the walk.
Caution:
As every time it is a high mountain environment, which is more in winter, Some simple precautions are of use. Before chash start, never forget to warn someone of our itinerary, check the weather conditions and equip themselves on. The Mountain weather reports France It's great for this: you can easily see the temperatures, the snowfall depending on the altitude and the orientation of the slopes, as well as the risk of avalanche per massif. If a doubt persists, do not hesitate to call the PGHM (Police and Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne) of the area concerned: they are the best informed when under conditions and will not fail to advise you on the precautions to be taken or areas to avoid.
> 3. Overnight at 2.027m altitude at the Espuguettes refuge.
The happiness of staying up there is to enjoy without watching the hour sunset. A splendid panorama takes place on the peaks surrounding the Cirque de Gavarnie, Tallion and Brèche de Roland in the spotlight. Once up there, there's nothing more than to put the stuff in the small dorm of 8 people (in winter the shelter is not kept but a dormitory remains accessible: more information about the site of the refuge of Espuguettes) then to appreciate a aperitif from the balcony enjoying the view and, if the energy boils again, tread the snow again to take a little height during the latest lights. During our last visit, the refuge was in the heart of an immaculate white plateau where the reliefs were softened by the heavy snow. The soft end-of-day lights were scattered in a light veil, and the whole set placed on the place a halo seizing…
The good idea to finish the day? One candlelight raclette To warm up! As often in nights in refuge, the meal time is shared with perfect strangers. All horizons are confused but a passion is common: the mountain. And that's enough for everyone to have a good time! Around the single wooden table the discussions fumes, the stoves burn, the cheese melts and the stomachs fill. In winter, there is no electricity or heating here but the whole heats the atmosphere! It is the unique atmosphere of mountain refuges.
> See our detailed description « RANDONNEED | The Espuguettes refuge from Gavarnie in winter + night at the refuge » for more details on how the night works at the shelter in unguarded times.
DAY 2 | Alarm clock in altitude – hiking to the Cirque de Gavarnie – flavours of the terroir – cozy night in a guest room of character.
> 1. After a wake-up in altitude, hike from the refuge des Espuguettes to the Cirque de Gavarnie.
Another happiness when you stay up there... It's to wake up thinking that for this day there is only to go down (in general!) The awakening can be done just before the sun to take the time to observe the first lights illuminate the mountain. A cup of hot coffee in the right hand and a muffin in the left hand! Breakfast thinks it's the least chilly from the balcony watching the Pyrenees awaken.
As the descent is not very long to the village of Gavarnie and the timing is not tight, our advice is to prolong the day hike making a detour through the plateau de la Courade. The idea? Admire what is probably the most beautiful view near the Cirque de Gavarnie Hey! It's a must. Although we have already visited this place many times, we cannot help but return regularly to admire...
Summer (risk route in winter as passing along an avalanche area, check carefully before leaving) A loop route can even be made: from the refuge of the Espuguettes, pass through the cabin of the Pailha and reach by following the trail in balcony lHotellerie du Cirque de Gavarnie (Superb view of the largest waterfall in France!). Then there is more than just to follow the classic route to the village. We advise you to check out the itinerary: Refuge des Espuguettes by Cirque de Gavarnie.
" 2. An afternoon at the pace of village atmospheres.
The day is already well advanced. But the good news is that only 30 minutes away from there is a place whose location is Perfect for radiate in the rest of the Gavarnie Valleys... While feeling like disconnected from the rest of the world! 88 inhabitants, about 3km2 and for only plugs, flocks of sheep that must be let through: welcome to Viella Hey! Just above Luz-Saint-Sauveur, Viella is the ideal cocoon to immerse yourself in the atmosphere of an authentic mountain village. It is also where one of the best addresses in the valley is located. On the central square, right next to the Romanesque church dating back to the 12th century, Patrick, shepherd and Pyrenean of character, makes live in addition to his flock of sheep a hostel as well as three guest rooms that make the part beautiful to the Pyrenean culture.
Good plan
On the road down from Gavarnie is the village of Gedar andHotel de La Brèche de Roland. This is not only a hotel, but also a great place to eat! As typical dishes of the terroir are offered to take away (booking on the phone beforehand is recommended), this time we had not failed to stop there to leave with two huge jars of garbure to warm up in anticipation of the evening meal. We recommend it, it was excellent! And we enjoyed the 0 plastic in the service to take away (from dish to dessert, everything is in glass jars).
Another escapade idea:
If these two days spent in altitude did not manage to quench the thirst for discovery of the most motivated, do not miss the discovery of Luz-Saint-Sauveur and its surroundings. Located just before Viella, we love:
– stroll through the alleys of this chief place of Toy Country,
– the walk to the Chateau Sainte-Marie which dominates the whole,
– the great view since the cross Saint-Justin (departs from the village of Sers or Barèges, but this, Patrick will not fail to advise you).
> 3. Overnight stay in guest rooms in Viella.
The bags lie in the attic room. From the window, always this view of the church, the square... And further on, above the smoke chimneys, on the white peaks that gradually fade into darkness. After a good shower, the sheep wool slippers slip to the feet. Pyrenean aperitif is enjoyed with Patrick. Then we settle in the individual dining area that he moved in for each room (to meet sanitary standards). Here nothing is missing: private table, fridge, microwave... More than a few minutes and the warm garb will fill the plates (tip: a good sheep cheese helps to wait). Needless to say how much that night here appreciates, under a good big duvet, after two days in altitude... And full stomachs!
Day 3 | Life as a shepherd – a gentle walk from the Col du Soulor to Lake Sum.
> 1. In Patrick's sheepfold, play apprentice shepherds.
We're not talking about paying tourism... But to help a man in his work, or, depending on the desire and availability, to visit him to discover his profession. Patrick alone manages a herd, an inn and guest rooms: each of these activities alone would normally be enough to fill a man's life! Patrick is therefore quite often overwhelmed, without it ever having to start his dynamism and good mood! After serving breakfasts, just before going to take care of the rooms, it is usually the time when he goes down to the sheepfold (a few meters down in the village) to feed his sheep. If you wish to accompany him, slide him in a word the day before or at breakfast: he will introduce you to his flock, Ellipse his shepherd's bitch, and can even show you the tasks he carries out on a daily basis.
If you want to know more, here are two links to discover Patrick's guest rooms « Bed & breakfasts Gentian women » and his inn « Hostel Viella » (the guest rooms are on the first floor above the hostel).
" 2. Finally, discover the Val d'Azun: walk from the Col du Soulor to Lake Soum.
The day before, it was snowshoes in the middle of the thick snow layers at 2,000m above sea level. Today, light sneakers and rest in this little corner of paradise. The Valley of Azun, small valley full of sweetness, is the perfect place to end a stay in the Gavarnie Valleys. From Viella, 1 hour's drive and some panoramic laces are enough to be extended in a completely different setting. Welcome. the Col du Soulor, at 1.471m altitude, is a superb gazebo on the Valley of Azun. From the parking lot of the pass, a small walk of 1h accessible to all starts in the fir forests (favourite bird shelter of any kind, the forest even houses an interpretive trail). Then it runs along the sunny ridges to reach the shores of Lake Soum. It's the perfect place for picnic, go savor from side and others the views overlooking the valleys, and lengthen the timea nap in the sun... An end of stay in the image of these different experiences we offer you where you mix nature, simplicity, disconnection and return toessential.
You liked this
route?
We hope he gave full of great ideas so you can live your own escapade in the Gavarnie Valleys. Less than a schedule to be followed, we wanted it to set the tone of the experiences can be lived in this pretty corner of the Pyrenees while honouring places a little out of the classic circuits.
Of course, there are still a lot of other places to discover. If you have any questions, comments, or just enjoyed this article, don't hesitate to let us know by leaving a comment, We always answer.
